A Fabulous Exhibition at the Tate Britain

British Orientalist Painting is the title of the current exhibit at the Tate Britain. This exhibit is of great significance for two reasons. One is the incredible art on view there. Some of Fredric Leighton's best work, as well as other mid to late 19th century British artists who toured and painted the Middle East at that time. The second reason is the insight into the lives of the people living there at the time as viewed by these artists and their wives. A very timely exhibit as the prominent position the Middle East currently plays in today's headlines.

Anyone who is a fan of the Pre-Raphelites will be thrilled with the assortment of watercolors, sketches and oils. The vivid colors reflect their influence in much of this art. The exhibition focuses on five major themes: portraits, genre, religious, domestic and landscape. The exhibition also ties the political scene at the time to the art portraying it. A whole room showing a rolling time line of the historic events gives the viewer an in depth look what was happening at the time. It also makes one reflect on how similar the problems are today over 100 years later. The more things change the more they are the same.

Hurry...don't miss this great collection. As of today there are only 12 days left!

A Step Back in Time

We're back! And once again we're touring around the UK to see the most interesting spots....

Laycock Village & Abbey -- Dryham Park

There aren't too many places where you can experience an entire preserved town complete with abbey manor house, community church, pubs, B&Bs, and shops, some of which date back to the 13th century. It's the England we all dream about from the novels and films we have read and seen. Lacock in Wiltshire is such a town. You can eat in quaint little pubs with antique furniture, stroll down streets lined with flowers spilling over window boxes and hanging baskets, and wander through English gardens and herb gardens on the grounds of the beautiful Abbey/ Manor House which is Lacock Abbey.

Lacock Abbey was founded in 1232 as nunnery. In 1539, Sir William Sharrington transformed it into a family home. The beautiful medieval cloisters were preserved and a 3 story Italian Renaissance style tower was added. You may find the large pot familiar, as the abbey was used as the interior of "Hogwarts" and for for many interior scenes in Harry Potter films. Most recently it was also the setting for "The Other Boleyn Girl".

One of Sharrington's descendants is William Henry Fox Talbot, the photographic pioneer and inventor of the negative process. The window where he had taken the first photographic negative is available for viewing as well as a little museum dedicated to him.

Not far from Lacock, is another spectacular 17th century mansion, garden and deer park called Dyrham Park. This home was designed for William Blathwayt, Secretary of War for William III. The house is filled with many Dutch decorative arts including Delftware, paintings and furniture.

Combining these two make for a great day out and a spirited trip to the centuries past.

Make Your Trip to London Even More Memorable

London is special but it can get hectic. When you are ready for that relaxing day in the countryside why not make it extra special and do it on the nostalgic Orient-Express. You will take a step back it time from the moment you see the historic train pull into Victoria station. Even the names of the cars evoke another age - Audrey, Cygnus, Ibis, Ione, Lucille, Minerva, Perseus, Phoenix, Vera and Zena. The train takes many one day trips to historic spots, gardens and stately homes around the UK. Each trip includes at least one elegant meal aboard and some include two.


Our trip to Winston Churchill's Chartwell House included a 3 course lunch on the way down. Before we dined we took a stroll through all of the elegant cars, each unique with a history of their own. Inlaid wood, mosaics, plush upholstery and rich color tones were evident throughout and made us feel as if we were visiting a posh parlour of the 1920's rather than taking a train ride. Our car was the Cygnus, a fitting car for this trip as it carried the coffin of Winston Churchill in his state funeral. As the train pulled out of the station we settled into our cushy wing chairs and prepared for the feast ahead. The meal started with champagne and moved slowly with the train through the 3 courses. It was relaxing, delicious and attentively served. A truly memorable lunch.

Upon arriving at Folkstone, we were met by a coach and taken to Chartwell. As we pulled up to the house we were somewhat surprised at the lack of opulence at first glance. However, as we moved through the house and caught the view out the back into the garden we were astounded by the sight before us. No wonder Winston Churchill did all he could to keep this place even when finances got tough. Rolling off the terrace was a beautiful lake, and a magnificent view of the garden of England (as the Kent countryside is known). The terraced hillside gardens reflect the importance to Churchill of the landscape and nature. All the ingredients of the perfect view are there, lakes, water gardens, rose gardens and romantic walkways.

The house is left as it was in Churchill's time, with books, maps, pictures and personal mementos reflecting the long career of a distinguished statesman with wide ranging interests. As an added bonus Churchill's artist studio in the garden can be visited where some of his paintings can be viewed. And before we left, we had time for a creamed tea in the restaurant overlooking the garden. But sadly, it was time to leave and our coach took us back to the fast pace of London. As on every trip we have taken on the Orient-Express, the tour guide accompanying us continued to give us interesting and informative bits of history as we passed through different parts of the city back to our return location. Alas, the day had ended but what we experienced, learned and saw would stay with us forever.

(This article refers to a trip taken in 2005, however these tours still operate regularly.)

Winchester and Surrounds

A Historic City, The Round Table , Exquisite Country Homes and Gardens

There are English cities that exude history, you can feel yourself in time travel mode and imagine the people, places and historic events that unfolded there years ago. Winchester is such a city. As you walk through the town you get a sense of place and time. This is the city where William the Conqueror built one of his first English castles. The only surviving part of the Castle is the Great Hall, still there to view along with the legendary 13th century Round Table. A table tied to legends and myths. Another major attraction is the magnificent Winchester Cathedral dating back to 1079.

The town abounds with places to stop for tea and a meal and the architecture is picturesque. For the military enthusiast, Winchester includes 6 military museums, the Gurkas, the King's Royal Hussars, the Royal Hampshire Regiment, the Light Infantry, the Royal Green Jackets and the Adjutant General's Corp.
As you leave the city itself the surrounds offer much more for visitors interested in gardens, historic country homes, art and antiques. Two homes with colorful gardens and great walking tours around the grounds are Hinton Amper and Mottisfont Abbey. Mottisfont was the home of F. M. Halford, the father of modern day fly fishing. The clear spring spilling into the river Test running through the property is a sight to behold. As we visited, the daffodils and other spring flowers were in bloom creating a sea of color.

Both houses offer interesting architectural features, decorative art, fine art and antiques. The third house in the area is Broadlands, home of Lord Mountbatten, naval commander, statesman, Viceroy to India and cousin to the Queen. Here you will not only see a magnificently furnished home but gain insight into the life and history surrounding Lord Mountbatten in an interesting museum of his life, also on the property.

So, something for everyone, pick your sights of interest and enjoy a great day out. And remember, Don't Just See Europe, Experience It with The Savvy Traveler!

What made Darwin Tick?

Lovers of history, biology, gardening and architecture will enjoy a trip to Charles Darwin's house, Down House in Kent. It was here that Darwin wrote that masterpiece "The Origin of Species" that rocked the world and continues to do so today. This is an English Heritage property and they have restored the house to the way Darwin left it when he died. It not only gives you a glimpse into the man and his life but it also allows you to view the life of the gentry in Victorian times. There is an excellent audio tour provided by headset that describes each room, how it was used and how it was viewed by the residents, including of course, comments by several of Darwin's many children.

Upstairs is an instructional exhibit of the many discoveries and studies that Darwin did over his lifetime. This includes extensive artifacts and information on his voyage on the Beagle around South American, and his work on the "Origin of Species" and it's reception. There are several interactive instructional displays for the children to learn from also.

Darwin, enjoyed his family and his garden. You will find evidence of that as well. The grounds are beautiful and includes his famous Sandwalk where he walked regularly hashing out his ideas in his head as he moved along.

And when you are finished stop by the shop which has some unique gifts for children pertaining to Darwin's discoveries. Do leave time for a spot of tea, the fudge cake is divine!

A Gem in the Weald

This past weekend we discovered one of those truly historic and atmospheric places that typifies one's romantic vision of England. It was a National Trust property called Ightham Mote. Dating back to, can you believe it 1320, this is a moated manor house. It has been lovingly restored and reflects the best of what the National Trust is all about. A gift from American Charles Robinson, the house took 14 years to restore it to it's former glory. The special features include a Great Hall, Crypt and a Tudor chapel with a hand painted ceiling. And unlike many of the existing moated castles, like Windsor, for example, this moat has not been filled with a garden but kept in it's original state with water flowing around it.

The gardens surrounding the house are also special and now in spring bloom. As you approach the house, you can see the impact of time and the several additions put in over the centuries. You enter across the moat on a foot bridge and emerge into a picturesque cobble stoned courtyard, with flowering fountain, a multi family birdhouse and Grade 1 listed dog kennel.

Upon entering watch your head, as the Tudors were shorter than we are! The paneling is rich and dark, and there are many architectural details to hold your interest. The chapel includes stained glass windows shimmering when the sun flows through.

Don't miss touring the grounds, as there is also a south lake beyond the house. As you exit, there is an excellent exhibition highlighting the conservation work done over the past 14 years and of course, then time to stop at the Mote Restaurant on the property for tea or lunch. What a great day out!

You can learn more about Ightham Mote at the National Trust website.

What a mess!

Only days after the Queen opened the new British Airways Terminal 5 at London's Heathrow airport, it became apparent that all was not well. The new terminal was hailed as what was to become the pride of British aviation for this early part of the century, however now it has sadly turned into nothing less than a huge debacle and an embarrassment for the both British Airways and the British Airports Authority.

As I write this today at the end of March, over 15,000 bags that have disappeared into a large black hole somewhere in the bowels of the terminal - but no one appears to be able to do anything to reunite them with their owners. Yesterday over 60 flights into and out of T5 were cancelled, and today's list is expected to be at least that many or possibly more.

As one can imagine, the pain continues for British Airways as the news commentators have a heyday over all this trouble. On Friday, British Airways CEO, Willie Walsh, in typically British understatement admitted that this did not represent the company's "finest hour". It has been reported that the company could be liable for EU fines of as high as £5,000 (approx. $9,700) per passenger for allegedly misleading travellers about their compensation rights. Yesterday one of the planners of the Denver airport said in an interview that they always had backup contingency plans for every step of the transition to that new airport. If such a plan was in place for Terminal 5, it is certainly not apparent.

If you are reading this today (30th March 2008) or indeed into early and possibly as late as mid April and planning a flight to London's Heathrow on British Airways, you should check with BA or the British Airports Authority to ascertain the status of flight operations at Terminal 5. If you are flying on an airline other than BA or into any of the other London airports, such as Gatwick, your flights should not be affected.

Pompeo Batoni Exhibition

NATIONAL GALLERY, LONDON
20th Feb - 18th May, 2008

If you are visiting London between now and May 18th don't miss an excellent exhibition at the National Gallery. It is highlighting the works of the premiere artist of 18th century Rome.

Batoni is widely known as a portrait artist, but as this exhibition demonstrates, he was also known throughout Europe for his religious and mythological painting. His work reflects a great knowledge of art, history and architecture. Even his portraits place the subject in an environment reflecting their interests in the classical world. The depth of color, the detail, the stories and the skill are all in evidence in this wonderful collection. I was particularly drawn to one of the first pictures on display that portrays a mythological view of Venice in the 18th century. Batoni painted at a time when learned gentleman did the Grand Tour. A portrait done by Batoni while visiting Rome was a must take home souvenir. Distinctive portraits were coveted by emperors, kings, popes, and princes. And by the way, some of the frames were as much a work of art as the paintings themselves.

As in most of these exhibitions, the presentation is nicely done with a video at the entry to give you the necessary background of the time, the artist and his style. All of the pieces are documented to read as you go along or an audio can also be purchased. There is a timed entry, however, there were no queues when we were there on a Tuesday afternoon.

To learn more about other art treasures in London, it's museums, or just activities and local tours around London go to our website, The Savvy Traveler.

State Visit at Windsor

We have seen many interesting events in the UK, and even in and around The Royal Bourough, but today's state visit by French President Nicholas Sarkozy has to be near the top of the list. The town was all but closed to traffic, of course, so we took the bus from the Park-Ride at Legoland, just down the road from Ascot. Upon arrival we found crowds of people already lining the parade route.

Windsor was all decked out in British and French flags, and the Queen's Standard (the large one!) was proudly flying atop the Castle. Just before the festivities began, the sun began to peak through proving once again that the President lives under a silver-lined cloud.

Arlene quickly located a local Police Constable who advised us of a good place to stand in order to get a good view of the events. It turned out to be an excellent vantage point, because the coaches passed within yards of our position, and we had great view of the entire pageant.

The parade began with line after line of troops in various ceremonial costumes marching in precision down the High Street. It continued through the Household Cavalry and culminated with the dignitaries themselves. And of course, there was the First Lady!

It was a great show, and once we returned home, we enjoyed watching the President's address to Parliament calling for further cooperation between Britain and France. See more pictures from the State Visit...

Waterloo International

We went into London earlier this week for lunch with friends, and to see a wonderful and highly recommended performance of "Buddy", currently playing at the Duchess Theatre on the West End. It was terrific, as one would expect from the reviews. Hopefully you will have an opportunity to see it soon.

For a change things went really well with our rail journey. Reports that much of the Easter weekend work had spilled over into the work week were either exaggerated or did not affect our route, because we arrived in Waterloo only 5 minutes late. However, on the trip in I could not help but notice the now defunct Waterloo International Terminal - former home of the Eurostar.

Some hail the move of the Eurostar to St. Pancras, for all reports a brilliant new facility, as a stroke of genius. We, however, are not happy. We used to be able to get on our little Ascot train, change at Waterloo and arrive in central Paris in just 2.5 hours from central London. Our 55 minute trip to Waterloo was not much more than driving to Heathrow and in most cases much less than driving to Gatwick. And you could check into the Eurostar up to 20 minutes prior to departure!

But no more. Now the journey takes almost days, because everyone knows that getting from Waterloo to St. Pancras is impossible. It's completely useless to even try around rush hour (almost anytime in London) - it could take as long as the trip to Paris!

The worst effect of the move, however, one that not only affects us but all Londoners, and indeed British, is the terrible waste of money and effort to build that very functional facility for naught. It now sits there sadly derelict - all boarded up. Where we used to see Eurostar trains bustling back and forth now stand empty platforms. I don't know how many millions of Pounds or Dollars were spent to build this now empty facility, but it certainly was poor management. Let's hope that no one now decides to move the Eurostar to Luton or Stansted!